GLAM GLADIATORS INVADE NORTH TORONTO FOR THE KICK OFF OF FASHION WEEK
Story by Odessa Paloma Parker
Photos by Erin Brittain
“Pretty tough” was the theme at Evan Biddell‘s Spring/Summer 2011 runway presentation. Showcased in an ominous warehouse north of the downtown core, the atmosphere was a mix of creativity and secrecy. Mannequins stripped bare (and some without heads) surrounded the catwalk; the setting wasn’t just about drama, however. Seven Continents, the show’s host, is a manufacturer of ‘forms, fixtures and furniture’ for retail stores worldwide. Their headquarters has been home to Biddell’s atelier since last October, and the inspiration of their hardware was infused into his collars, coats and belts.
‘Kingdom’ is Biddell’s latest offering of trademark tailoring and texture, and while the official homage was to armour and the battlefield, something more poetic was apparent with the delicate florals and graphic animal prints he used for flowing dresses and sweet swimwear. “We weren’t very sure about these florals when we saw them,” he told me during a brief chat on a throne backstage (flanked by his models, the cheeky and genuine designer seemed to enjoy the trappings of his kingdom very much). “I was drawn to them, and wanted to do something with them. But then the rest of the collection went in a harder direction…but I still felt [they] complemented each other.” Complement they did, and opposites attracted as the hard edge of jackets and structured skirts were softened by sexy, summery details like plunging backs and fluid draping.
The show started with a lovely blonde running down the catwalk, followed by a parade of stoic babes prepared for battle; spikes, breastplates and oversized studs detailed eveningwear and one-piece bathing suits. A darker palette was used for these first pieces, but then came the light. An interesting contrast to the gladiator glamazon we saw just saunter past us was an uber-feminine range of harem pants, blouses and my personal favourite – a kimono-style cocktail dress with wide folds that lead into enormous pockets – avoided being saccharine through styling with tougher bits like belts covered in metal detailing.
The showstoppers came toward the end, with Biddell’s adept hand at subtle luxury evident in the sweeping coats with almost skeletal pleating down the sleeves and back. Citing 300 as one of his muses for the collection, I could picture any modern warrioress taking down an army for many of the pieces featured tonight. There will be a special on-site media installation of ‘Kingdom’ during LG Toronto Fashion Week on Thursday, October 21st at 6:30pm. To see these pieces in person is to believe – for samples, the runway garments were near-impeccable – and it becomes clear why Biddell has earned his crown in Canadian fashion.
